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French Art Deco AGL Natural No-Heat Sapphire and Diamond Pendant Earrings

Created in France circa 1920, these Art Deco platinum pendant earrings are set with approximately 13.00 carats of sapphires and 7.00 carats of diamonds. Each pendant earring is designed as a cushion-cut diamond top suspending an articulated cascade of stylized diamond foliate elements and two cushion-cut sapphires, one freely hanging, terminating in a flexible diamond fringe, with millegrain accents throughout. Luxuriously long period earrings of this size and quality almost never survived the dictates of changing couture and hairstyles, and these rare jewels glamorously convey the sparkling, fast-moving modernism of the 1920s.

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  • Product Details
  • Curator's Notes

Item #: ER-20916
Circa: 1920
Dimensions: 3.00" length, 0.875" width.
Materials: 4 cushion-cut blue sapphires (weighing 4.14 carats, and weighing approximately 5.06, 1.90 and 1.95 carats); 2 square cushion and 110 old mine-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 7.20 carats); Platinum
Signed: French dog's head guarantee stamps for platinum
Documentation: The four sapphires are accompanied by AGL report 1132932 A and B dated 13 July 2023 stating that the sapphires weighing approximately 5.06, 1.95 and 1.90 carats are of Thailand origin, while the sapphire weighing 4.14 carats is of Madagascar origin.
Literature: For elongated Art Deco pendant earrings in a similar style, see Earrings From Antiquity to the Present, by Daniel Mascetti and Amanda Triossi, pp. 156-161.

These early French Art Deco earrings retain the former period's fascination with foliate elements, but they are now highly stylized and subordinated to geometric framing. Their strong design is enlivened by their great length and full articulation, with an additional delicate fringe enhancing their constant movement and sparkle. The earrings are marked by bold color and the appearance of volume, but their minimalist platinum mountings and use of negative space maintains their airy lightness.