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Cartier Paris Diamond "Panthère Griffe" Ring

$20,000
A design dating from the 2000s, this Cartier "Panthère Griffe" ring is composed of 18K white gold and diamonds. It is designed as a bypass form of overlapping raised diamond pavé panther claws reflecting against symmetrical forms of plain polished white gold. Inspired by the firm's 1940s "Panthère" jewels, which positioned Cartier as the pre-eminent innovator of the post-war years, this striking, sculptural and unusual ring is an outstanding contemporary design in the firm's historic creative tradition.
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  • Curator's Notes

Item #: R-21173
Artist: Cartier Paris
Country: France
Circa: 2000s
Size: 6
Materials: 64 round brilliant-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 2.00 carats, F/G/ color, VS clarity); 18K White Gold
Signed: Cartier 750 C 53 138198, maker's mark, French assay mark

The motif of the panther infuses Cartier's design history from the early 20th century. Louis Cartier commissioned the Parisian artist George Barbier to design a lady and black panther illustration as an exhibition invitation for clients in the 1910s, possibly inspired by his mistress and muse Jeanne Toussaint's passion for the animal. The panther skin designs of diamond and onyx appeared often in Charles Jacqueau's superb Art Deco jewels - watches, brooches, and bracelets - of the 1920s. When Toussaint took over as design director, she returned to the panther for inspiration to create extraordinary sculptural jewels for the Duchess of Windsor, the femme fatale for whom Edward VIII abdicated the throne of England. The Duchess' panther bracelet, created by Toussaint and British/French designer Peter Lemarchand, remains the most expensive piece of jewelry (excepting those mounted with individual rare gemstones) ever to be sold at auction.
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