Skip to content

Antique Old Mine-cut Diamond Rivière Necklace

Composed of old mine and rose-cut diamonds, this rivière necklace is mounted in enameled 18K gold. Each old-mine cut diamond, graduating in size from approximately 0.50 carat to 0.15 carat, is box-set, with a champlevé black enamel surround, and highlighted by rose-cut diamond accents. With its contrast of scintillating, fiery cushion-shaped old mine diamonds against rectilinear matte black enamel surrounds, this unusual take on the traditional rivière form sits lightly on the neck and makes for a youthful and versatile jewel.

Add to Wishlist

  • Product Details
  • Curator's Notes

Item #: N-20914
Circa: 1880-1890
Size: 14.25" length
Materials: 40 old mine-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 11.30 carats, K/L color, SI clarity ); 120 rose-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 1.00 carat, K/L color, SI clarity ); 18K Gold; Enamel
Signed: With French owl importation mark

The rivière rose to popularity in the 18th century, designed as a simple line of graduating single stones, strung on silk. By the end of the century ,it was the most stylish choice for a neck ornament. Those wealthy enough to own an outsize specimen diamond would suspend it at the front of the rivière. Queen Marie, wife of Louis XV and owner of the shield-shape, pale yellow Sancy, amplified this trend at court by wearing her 55.23 carat historic Indian diamond in that novel fashion. In the 19th century, greater appreciation of the diamond as a dramatic intensifier of white light led to the evolution to open back mountings, as in this rivière.