By the 1960s, Neiman Marcus had evolved from its founding in Dallas as a specialized luxury boutique, serving a bold and confident new oil elite, into a powerhouse of high end retail with strong connections to the great couturiers of France and Italy. The jewelry department, kicked off in the 1940s by Chapin Marcus and Dudley Ramsden (formerly of the New York firms Marcus & Co. and Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin) were able to source high quality gems and high style contemporary jewelry, especially New York and Parisian work of striking and extravagant flair -and high prices- to suit the local taste. The department trained and collaborated with a number of luminaries of the business like Kurt Wayne, David Yurman, and Verdura. A notable trainee was Michael Hall Thomas, a "man of fast decisions", whose talents caught the attention of the new owners of Cartier, New York. Their business and design quality had declined dramatically in the 1960s after the Cartier family had sold out. In 1969, Cartier brought Thomas to run its New York salon, where he immediately concluded a "gentleman's agreement" with Aldo Cipullo to carry his Love bracelet and other exclusive designs. A dynamic, charismatic person, dressed in Dior, Thomas championed Jean Dinh Van, Roger Lucas ("the King of Rings") and other young people whom he tapped as the best in contemporary design. Thomas is credited with leading the revival of the New York branch and its fortunes.