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Carved Emerald Bead and Diamond Collar Necklace


Dating from the 1930s, this Art Deco platinum necklace, composed of nineteen carats of carved emeralds and over eleven carats of diamonds, is an artistic period jewel with a striking visual aesthetic. Centering on five graduating melon-carved emerald beads, flanked by black enamel accents and surrounded by old European- and triangular-cut diamonds, the necklace is completed by articulated tapering bar links extending to a flexible chain and clasp, all pavé- and channel-set with alternating baguette- and old European-cut diamonds. Sweeping lines and bold geometry unite the curvaceous forms of the fluted, satin-green emerald beads with the rectilinear, sparkling diamond links, while contrasting black enamel serves to fix the eye on this compellingly beautiful ornament for the neck.


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  • Product Details
  • Curator's Notes

Item #: N-18044
Circa: 1930s
Size: 16.50” length
Materials: 5 Melon-carved emerald beads (approximate total weight 19.00 carats); 124 Baguette-, 10 triangular-, and 302 old European-cut diamonds with a G/H/I color grade and VS clarity (approximate total weight 11.10 carats); Enamel; Platinum

In the 1920s, Art Deco jewelry was heavily infused with design ideas from the long tradition of Mughal arts when Indian royals came to Paris and London as new patrons of the major jewelry houses. Among these Mughal traditions was their love of emeralds and their incomparable skill in carving the gems into floral plaques, leaves, and beads for jewelry and jeweled objects.