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Burmese SSEF No-Heat Ruby and Old Mine-cut Diamond Ring

Dating from circa 1900, this ruby and diamond ring is set in platinum and 18K gold. It is bezel-set with an untreated Burma cushion-cut ruby, measuring approximately 8.05 x 7.65 x 3.95 mm, and weighing approximately 1.85 carats, framed by a stepped surround of old mine-cut diamonds, and flanked by diamond shoulders in a fleur-de-lis motif, set in platinum-topped 18K gold. With its forward-looking geometric design, this beautifully colored and gracefully shaped gem ruby sits in a delicate Edwardian mounting that balances lightly on the hand.

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  • Product Details
  • Curator's Notes

Item #: R-20666
Circa: 1900-1910
Size: 6.25 (this ring can be sized; please contact the gallery for further information)
Materials: 1 cushion-cut ruby (with approximate total weight 1.75 carats); 84 old mine-cut diamonds (with approximate total weight 0.50 carat); platinum-topped 18K gold
Documentation: Accompanied by SSEF report #110634 dated 3 October 2019 stating that the ruby is of Burma (Myanmar) origin, with no indications of heating.

Rubies from Burma have long been sought as possessing the most desirable red. For periods throughout its history, including the second half of the 20th century, Burma was effectively closed to the outside world, and access to the deposits was barred. This ring was created during a period when, from the 1880s, the gems were mined for around a 50-year period. In its shape, this ruby has a pleasant "spread" - its crown and table have a substantial width and length, without hiding much weight beneath the surface.