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Jules Chéret Art Nouveau 18K Gold and Rose-cut Diamond Brooch

Designed by Jules Chéret, created circa 1900, this 18K gold brooch depicting a young woman is set with rose-cut diamonds. The brooch is designed in the form of a chased 18K gold fan edged with rose-cut diamonds set in platinum, and centering a relief image of a smiling young woman with an extravagant updo wearing a diamond necklace and aigrette, set among bows, ribbons and roses. Relating to the artist's 1899 lithograph "Dance", this jewel serves as a wearable form of Chéret's celebrated Art Nouveau poster art.

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  • Curator's Notes

Item #: BO-20870
Artist: Cheret
Country: France
Circa: 1900
Dimensions: 1.625" length x 1.125" width
Materials: 54 rose-cut diamonds; 18K Gold
Signed: Cheret, French assay mark

Jules Chéret (1836-1932) is one of the seminal 19th century artists to explore color lithography and the medium of the art poster. Called 'The Master" by the most celebrated artist of the poster, Toulouse-Laiutrec, Chéret was highly influential in his own time. His posters, paintings and pastels were purchased by period artists including Degas and Monet, as well as by collectors. Apprenticed at 13 to a lithographer, he struggled to find work in Paris and London before eventually raising funds to open a lithography studio. He rose to fame for his enchanting and original posters composed of energetic, elegant figures animated by flamboyant gaiety, and his impressive refinement and advances in techniques of lithography for which he became a Chevalier de la Légion of Honor. His posters pasted on the walls of Paris enlivened and energized his age. Though an inspiration for the Art Nouveau, Chéret's work displays clear links to the work of Giambattista Tiepolo, the 18th century Venetian master of large scale frescoes characterized by vertical composition, costumed splendor, a language of theatrical imagery, and vigorous action that appears ready to spill over into the viewer's dimension. The "fantasia" and "capriccio" that characterized Tiepolo's art played an important part, through Chéret, in defining the Belle Epoque aesthetic.