A French Antique 18-karat gold and enamel bracelet with turquoise. The bracelet is composed of 4 strands of woven gold rope with clover-shaped enamel and turquoise set slides. The enamel work is designed as Moorish arabesques set with cabochon turquoise. The hanging locket has a similar clover-shaped motif. This piece can be seen as an ancestor of Van Cleef & Arpels''s iconic "Alhambra" jewelry.
A French Art Deco platinum bracelet with diamonds by Okrant et Davidonniez. The flexible open work bracelet has 512 European-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 38.00 carats, 2 larger diamonds with an approximate total weight of 2.00 carats, and 2 smaller flanking diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.00 carat, VS clarity, G/H/I color grade. With original box. The Okrant et Davidonniez workshop was located in Paris at 64 rue Lafayette. They produced jewelry for all the Place Vendôme fine jewelry houses, such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Mauboussin, and Boucheron. The firm closed in 1939. Exhibited at "Anything Goes: The Jazz Age" at the Nassau County Museum of Art, 24 March 2018 - 8 July 2018. Similar bracelets are pictured in Art Deco Jewelry, by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1984, page 84, 154.
An American Mid-20th Century platinum, gold and diamond bracelet by Ruser. The Modernist motif bracelet has 20 unique diamond pave links that are individually hinged and further decorated with gold beading. There are 300 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 16.00 carats. William Ruser was a much sought-after Beverly Hills jeweler to the Hollywood community. His pieces were worn by numerous film stars on- and off-screen, from the 1940''s through the 1960''s. The distinctive Ruser style involved skillfully-sculpted children and pearl-winged angels, often seated on clouds of freshwater pearls and crowned with halos of tiny seed pearls, as well as less whimsical jewelry. He closed the doors to his shop in 1969, whereupon the property was bought by Van Cleef and Arpels, which remains in the same location on Rodeo Drive today.
An important French Retro, 18-karat rose gold bangle bracelet with diamonds, rubies, and rose quartz, by Verger Frères. The hinged bangle bracelet is designed with terminals of rose quartz sphere clusters, each set with circular-cut rubies, approximate total weight 1.65 carats, flanked by old mine-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.30 carats, further highlighted by calibré-cut rubies with an approximate total weight of 1 carat. The Verger workshop was a successful, behind-the-scenes force creating jewels for Boucheron, Cartier, Tiffany, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Unlike those of many manufacturing jewelers, who merely produced work to order, Verger''s own original designs were particularly valued and sought after by these great Parisian Maison. Verger are known for their magnificent clocks featuring strongly defined shapes, stylized lines and global inspiration. For the Haute Joaillerie he created elaborate fancies of form and color contrast, as we see here in this important rose gold bracelet.
The Van Cleef & Arpels "Bagatelle" Bracelet:This French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold "Bagatelle" bracelet with diamonds and sapphires by Van Cleef & Arpels was designed as a bed of gold beads scattered with sapphire and diamond blossoms, set with 58 round-cut diamonds, with an approximate total weight of 6.00 carats, G/H color, VS clarity, and 61 round-cut sapphires with an approximate total weight of 6.00 carats. Price: $65,000 – Call: (212) 644-6400Dating from the late 1940s/early 1950s, this chic bracelet represents the spirit of post-war rejuvenation and easy glamor. Sometimes worn two to a wrist, these bold bracelets defined the relaxed elegance of cocktail hour and women''s renewed social freedom. Its domed form, topped with playful beads, is scattered with richly colored sapphire and diamond blossoms, presenting a complex visual and tactile texture, and combining organic appeal with a sculptural quality. The master jeweler workshop that realized VCA''s design was Pery et Fils, who famously collaborated with the house on the Duchess of Windsor''s "Zip" necklace and the "Passe Partout" convertible jewels. This bracelet''s superb construction, with its exquisitely articulated, myriad micro-springs and hinges, is a creation of a lost jeweler''s art and is supremely flexible, soft and comfortable to wear.A similar bracelet is pictured in Van Cleef & Arpels, by S
ylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1986, page 236. VC&A devised a number of delightful variations using these design elements, sometimes variously named between the house and the trade. On page 131, Raulet explains that when the massed gold beads, referred to as the "Lawn" or in the market as "Couscous", was paired with "Hawaii" flowers, the overall design was called "Bagatelle".
A French Late-20th Century ebony cuff with 18 karat gold accents by Van Cleef & Arpels. The tapering exotic wood cuff with dark graining inlaid with nine 18kt gold triangle motifs. Circa 1993. Note: Having innovated with fresh and unusual materials since the 1920s, Van Cleef began incorporating wood again into its designs both in the 1960s and the 1990s, in response to enthusiasm for natural materials. Sleek, modernist forms, as these earrings, were designed, as well as whimsical items such as jeweled mushroom pins on wooden stalks.Similar to the collection pictured in Van Cleef & Arpels, by Evelyne Possémé, Les Arts Decoratifs, 2013, page 222.
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