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Suzanne Belperron Blue Chalcedony “Tonneau” Brooch


This magic and Modernist chalcedony "Tonneau" brooch by modernist jeweler Suzanne Belperron dates from the exciting period when she successfully established her own business, at last allowing her imagination and full talents free reign. With this playful half-barrel brooch, she reverses the traditional hierarchy of precious and semi-precious stones, using vivid rubies, sapphires, and emeralds as patterned inlays set in gray gold in the dreamy-blue chalcedony hardstone, a difficult feat of workmanship which Belperron oversaw with demanding eye. The brooch is accompanied by a detachable double-strand necklace of blue chalcedony beads that was added later, this jewel is an easily convertible and versatile compact piece of modernist sculpture to wear.

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  • Product Details
  • Curator's Notes

Item #: BO-18944
Artist: Suzanne Belperron, Gröné et Darde, Paris
Country: France
Circa: 1932-1940
Size: 1.5” length, 1.5" width (brooch); 17” length (accompanying detachable necklace)
Materials: Carved half-barrel blue chalcedony (3.9 cm,3.4 cm, 39.3 grams); 6 Cushion-, oval-, rectangular-, and square-cut sapphires; 11 Square- and rectangular-cut rubies; 8 Square-cut emeralds; 18K Gray gold; Together with later-added detachable strand of matching blue chalcedony beads
Signed: French assay marks for gold and partially effaced maker’s marks for Société Groëné et Darde
Documentation: With certificate of authenticity referring to archival design and period of manufacture (in Paris, between 1932 and 1940 by the company B. Herz), dated July 24 (#12018) from Belperron LLC

An original thinker, Suzanne Belperron designed like a modernist sculptor in miniature, creating inventive, arresting and beautiful jewels in novel materials. Among the most devoted clients of Suzanne, The Duchess of Windsor sat for Cecil Beaton’s legendary photo portrait wearing her Belperron blue chalcedony earrings and brooch from circa 1935.