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René Lalique Plique-à-Jour Enamel "L'Anémone de Bois" Brooch

$225,000

Designed, modeled and carved by René Lalique himself, this flora brooch, entitled "L'Anémone de Bois," is a work of genius showcasing Lalique's early explorations in plique-à-jour enamel and pressed glass set in gold. Accented by two large oval-cut aquamarines, this brooch was the first in an emotive series of jewels exploring courtship and celebrating the old-growth forests of his childhood in Marnes, and was considered a critical triumph at the 1898 Salon. Lalique's unrivaled enamel work in this jewel, jade green with exquisite shading and delicacy, exemplifies the artistic sensitivity and technical acuity that established his reputation as the "Master of Modern Jewelry."

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  • Product Details
  • Curator's Notes

Artist: René Lalique, Paris 
Country: France 
Circa: 1897 
Size: 2.5” length, 2.75” width 
Materials: 2 Oval-cut aquamarines (weight approximately 8.10 carats set on the pendant drop, and 3.75 carats set on the brooch top); 40 Old European-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 1.80 carats); Plique-à-jour enamel; Molded glass; 18K Gold 
Signed: “Lalique”
Literature: Art et Décoration, by Henri Vever (1898), Volume 1, praised the jewel’s exquisite leaves and petals as conveying nature’s "infinitely complicated and precious architecture" on pp. 169-178

In his early years, René Lalique personally designed and modeled each mold for his creations in clay—they were then cast in iron and coated with a paste of resin and beeswax, hand-tooled for detail. The finish pressed-glass jewel was submerged in a bath of hydrofluoric acid, frosting the exterior.
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