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Calibré-Cut Ruby and Diamond Flower Ring


Dating from the late Edwardian period, this unusual pictorial flower ring is composed of rubies and diamonds. The central navette silhouette depicts a diamond flower framed in a field of square step- and calibré-cut rubies edged with diamonds, and flanked by incised, diamond-set shoulders and gallery with geometric swag motifs. This original and beautiful jewel looks ahead to the bold colors and stylization of the Art Deco period, while maintaining Edwardian grace and delicacy.


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  • Product Details
  • Curator's Notes

Item #: R-16774
Circa: 1910
Size: 5.25 (this ring may be resized, please contact us for further information)
Materials: 52 Square step- and calibré-cut rubies (approximate total weight 1.65 carats); 46 Round brilliant-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 0.75 carat); Platinum
Signed: Unsigned, numbered "16596" and "3714"

Jewelers began to explore the possibilities of calibré and buff-top colored stones for pictorial work in gems in the 1900s and 1910s, leading to spectacular results in the Art Deco period, when this refined work allowed for the artful depiction of stylized flowers, serpents and Egyptian motifs by great Parisian houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels and Lacloche Frères.