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Calibré-cut Gem and Diamond Retro Charm Bracelet


This Retro 14K gold bracelet set with calibré-cut gems and diamond charms dates from the 1940s. The broad strap composed of flexible brickwork links is set with seven diamond and platinum charms highlighted by calibré-cut and cabochon rubies, sapphires, emeralds, star sapphire, and jade, depicting a songbird, swan, clown, ballerina, cottage, water carrier, and dartboard, bordered by diamonds and diamond swags, and completed by an arched, stylized buckle clasp. A rare, flexible version of this style, set on small brickwork links instead of a rigid bangle, this colorful and lively bracelet with its parade of amusing charms offers delight and fascination.

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  • Product Details
  • Curator's Notes

Item #: BA-20648
Country: United States
Circa: 1940s
Size: 6.50” length x 1.25” width
Materials: 234 old European-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 4.00 carats); Calibré-cut emeralds, rubies and sapphires; 1 cabochon star sapphire; 1 cabochon jadeite jade; 1 cabochon moonstone; 14K gold; Platinum
Literature: Similar bracelets of this era and style are pictured in American Jewelry: Glamor and Tradition, by Penny Proddow, p.126, and Understanding Jewellery, by David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti, plate 740, p. 395.

By the outbreak World War II, jewelers in New York had begun to design light and voluminous work in 14K gold. The war effort’s requirements for platinum and gold greatly accelerated this trend. Recycled into colorful mounts for wide bangle bracelets, out-of-style Art Deco platinum, diamond and gem-set charm bracelets often made a second appearance in this outsize, lighthearted Retro form.