Skip to content

Black Tracery Enamel, Ruby and Pearl Buckle Bangle Bracelet


A fine Victorian jewel, this 18K gold black tracery enamel, or taille d’epargné, buckle bracelet with rubies and diamonds dates from the 1860s-1880s. The wide, double hinged form features a buckle motif with engraved black tracery enamel curved strap anchored to buttons by gold rings, bordered by two-tiered geometric engraved edges throughout the form. Ahead of its time, this superb Victorian bangle expresses the timeless appeal of geometric motifs and bold, streamlined abstraction, realized in a precious, beautifully crafted form.


Add to Wishlist

  • Product Details
  • Curator's Notes

Item #: BA-20266
Circa: 1860s-1880s
Size:  6.25” interior circumference x 1.25” width
Materials: 10 round-cut rubies (approximate total weight 0.30 carat); 10 split seed pearls; Black tracery enamel; 18K gold

Like so many 19th century jewelry styles, buckle and strap motif bracelets were inspired by Queen Victoria and her Order of the Garter, an ancient chivalric title dating from the 14th century. Ever modest, Victoria was known to wear the strap and buckle emblem on her wrist, setting off a trend for these bold, abstract design bangles with enamel and gems.