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Antique 18K Gold and Diamond Five Stone Ring

Created circa the 1890s, this antique diamond ring is set with diamonds mounted in 18K gold. The delicate 18K gold band is set across the top with a tapering line of old mine and old European-cut diamonds, approximate total weight 1.28 carats, within an open gallery, completed by a slender 18K gold shank with incised scrolling shoulders. This delicate handmade ring reads as a twinkling line of white light across the finger, and would love to be paired or stacked with additional gemmy rings or bands.

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  • Product Details
  • Curator's Notes

Item #: R-21286
Country: most likely England
Circa: 1890s
Size: 6 (this ring can be sized; please contact the gallery for further information)
Materials: 5 old mine and old European-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 1.20 carats); 8 rose-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 0.08 carat); 18K Gold
Signed: Maker's mark ADL possibly for A.D. Loewenstark & Sons, London, 18ct

In the late 19th century, jewelers looked not only to the Art Nouveau for aesthetic inspiration but also, as here, back to 18th century diamond creations to express love for luxury. For these 5 stone "half" hoops of diamonds and colored stones, jewelers increasingly reduced the precious metal to concentrate focus on the gems. In contrast to 18th century mountings, in which the gems were enclosed with metal backings, these rings' delicate, open galleries minimize the gold settings that block light reflection and transmission, offering the stones set "a-jour" - in other words, maximally "open to the day". These more graceful, minimalist settings ensured that the diamonds would blaze with light. Gently tapering, this ring works beautifully with other diamond, gemmy, or plain period bands to create a sparkling stack for the finger. Unlike modern cuts—which maximize brilliance (white light)—antique cuts take advantage of diamond’s unmatched capacities for white light return, rainbow flashes, and scintillation, by achieving a beautiful balance of the three.