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Bulgari Rome Natural No-Heat Ruby and Diamond “Trombino” Ring

Designed and created by Bulgari, Rome, this classic natural no-heat Tajikistan ruby and diamond “Trombino” ring dates from the 1990s. The platinum mount centers a natural, no-heat oval-cut ruby, of Tajikistan origin, weighing 6.65 carats, flanked by diamond baguettes, with pave-set round brilliant-cut diamond shoulders. A timeless and bold Bulgari design dating from the 1930s, this outstanding “Trombino” offers a rare and precious natural ruby of significant size from an historic deposit.

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  • Product Details
  • Curator's Notes

Item #: R-20633
Artist: Bulgari, Rome
Country: Italy
Circa: 1990s
Size:  6.50; (this ring can be sized; please contact the gallery for further information)
Materials: 1 oval-cut ruby (weighing 6.65 carats); 75 baguette and round-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 3.30 carats); Platinum
Diamonds: G/H color, VS clarity
Signed: Bulgari 6.65 cts, Made in Italy, Italian import marks
Documentation: The ruby is accompanied by American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) report #1123898 dated 7 July 2022, and Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) report #116847 dated 27 April 2021, both stating that the ruby is natural and untreated, and of Tajikistan origin. 
Literature: For images of early Bulgari Trombino rings dating from the 1930s, see Bulgari, by Daniela Mascetti and Amanda Triossi, p. 63.

Tajikistan represents one of the world’s original sources of ruby, a gem considered most precious in ancient Sanskrit texts as well as in the Torah. In the Torah, only divine wisdom is said to surpass the value of rubies.  Saturated red, transparent ruby has always been rare and highly prized, and in reality such natural, untreated rubies only rarely exceed five carats in size. Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, the 17th/18th century Hugenot adventurer and gem dealer to Louis XIV, explained that the price of rubies rose on a parabolic scale as they increased in weight from 1 to 2 to 3 carats - at 6 carats, Tavernier reported, “there is no price.” The ancient mines of Tajikistan were exploited by the Mughal rulers of India for both rubies and their gem cousins, the more abundant, larger, slightly purplish-red spinels, which they inscribed. Aware of their extreme rarity, the Mughals refrained from inscribing large rubies, fashioning them lightly to preserve as much as possible their weight, beauty, and power. The most vibrantly colored rubies like this one have few iron impurities and can fluoresce when illuminated by light containing rays in the ultraviolet area of the spectrum.