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Henri Dubret Basse-Taille Enamel and Gem-Set Plaque-de-Cou Necklace


Dating from the Art Nouveau period, this sophisticated gold and platinum plaque-de-cou necklace by artist Henri Dubret is a gem-set and enamel masterpiece of polychrome butterflies, flowers, and foliage. A diamond blossom centering an oval-cut emerald sits amidst three spotted polychrome basse-taille enamel and diamond butterflies, all framed by orange and green sinuous vines with diamond highlights, a single pearl pendant, seemingly dripping from the plaque. Mounted on a broad velvet ribbon with a gold bar closure, this romantic jewel in enamel and gems is an exquisite work of Art Nouveau to wear.


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  • Product Details
  • Curator's Notes

Item #: N-19561
Artist: Henri Dubret, Paris
Country: France
Circa: 1903
Size: 2" length, 1.5" width (plaque); Velvet ribbon can be adjusted
Materials: Oval-cut emerald (weighing approximately 0.15 carat); 134 Old mine and rose-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 1.27 carats); Pearl; Basse-taille enamel; Platinum; 18K Gold; Velvet ribbon
Signed: “H. Dubret” with French assay stamp
Exhibition History: Necklace exhibited at the Paris Salon of the Societé des Artistes Français in 1903; Major museum collections, including the Musée d'Orsay in Paris, include examples of Dubret's work
Documentation: Accompanied by the original signed artist’s gouache and pencil design

Henri Dubret’s work of this period is characterized by exuberant coloration, boldly combining saturated pastel tones with naturalistic greens and reds.