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Marcus & Co. Natural Saltwater Pearl and Emerald Brooch


In this lavish pearl and emerald brooch, Marcus & Co. offers a Mughal-style jewel interpreted through the lens of American masters of the Art Nouveau. This intriguing ornament expresses Indian sensibility and form, over-spilling with lustrous natural saltwater button pearls and an asymmetrical emerald bead drop—both gems that the Mughal empire had eagerly imported—atop a gold frame set with diamonds and complementary green enamel work. Wearable as a pendant on a simple velvet ribbon or cord, the jewel is a statement of global vision and artistic virtuosity.

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  • Product Details
  • Curator's Notes

Artist: Marcus & Co.
Circa: 1900
Size: 3” length, 1.625” width
Materials: 10 Natural saltwater button pearls; 15 Old European-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 1.25 carats); Emerald bead (approximate weight 14.20 carats); Enamel; 18K Gold
Signed: “M & Co.”
Documentation: Together with Gemological Institute of America (GIA) certificate #2171449596, stating that the pearls are natural saltwater button pearls
Literature: A design drawing for a similar jewel by Marcus & Co. is contained in the period design albums of the firm, preserved at the Rauner Library, Dartmouth, and digitized by the Metropolitan Museum of Art

The distinctive, highly-textured Marcus & Co. gold work, with its miniature scrolls, incised circles and tiny graduated beads, serves to enhance the jewel’s fluid lines and organic presence.