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René Boivin “Lilac-Leaf” Brooch


Dating from circa 1940, this Art Moderne gold brooch, bezel-set with a rainbow of seventy-eight variously colored round and oval-cut tourmalines, aquamarines and beryls, is a celebrated design by Juliette Moutard of the House of René Boivin, Paris. Blending in dramatic progression from rose and fuchsia into blue and yellow green, this unusual leaf with its high relief modeling harmonizes a rich array of gemmy hues and tones into a daring palette of rich color. A significant gem-set artwork by a top Art Moderne designer, this jewel clips easily to a jacket or neckline of a gown, offering an uplifting burst of color that is wearable every day.

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  • Product Details
  • Curator's Notes

Item #: BO-19897
Artist: René Boivin, Paris (designed by Juliette Moutard)
Country: France
Circa: 1940
Size: 1.75" length, 1.625" width
Materials: 78 Round- and oval-cut tourmalines, aquamarines, and beryls; 18K Gold (total weight 16.6 grams)
Signed: French assay marks; stamped "Deposé" 
Literature: Similar brooch pictured in René Boivin Jeweller, by Françoise Cailles, Quartet Books, 1994, p. 235
Documentation: Together with authenticity report, from Boivin archivist and expert Françoise Cailles and Jean-Norbert Salit confirming and dating the brooch as the work of the firm René Boivin


As designer for the House of Boivin, Juliette Moutard worked collectively with the owner Jeanne Boivin and her daughter Germaine to source ideas; as the only one of the group with skill in draftsmanship, Juliette drew for all three, bringing all their imaginative designs to life on paper.