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René Boivin Pair of “Lilac-Leaf” Brooches


This asymmetrical pair of ombré "Lilac-Leaf" brooches by René Boivin are an Art Moderne study in the interplay of color and stylization of form. The high jewels bear all the hallmarks of renowned designer Juliette Moutard’s genius in their daring, appealing contrasts of hue and tone—with deep green and pink tourmalines, yellow and green beryls, pale amethysts, and light blue aquamarines—and set in gold with sensitive, stylized naturalism. Easily clipped adjacent to each other or in asymmetric opposition onto the neckline of a gown or jacket, these gorgeous, vibrantly-colored leaves are an invitation to play with wearable art. Sold exclusively as a matching set.

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  • Product Details
  • Curator's Notes

Item #: BO-19401
Artist: René Boivin, Paris
Country: France
Circa: 1936-1938
Size: 2.75” length, 2.125” width; 1.375" length, 2" width
Materials: 40 Oval-cut green and pink tourmalines (approximate total weight 30.80 carats); 11 Green and yellow beryl (approximate total weight of 4.40 carats); 15 Aquamarines (approximate total weight 10.00 carats); 30 Single-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 0.70 carat); 12 Amethysts (approximate total weight 2.70 carats); 18K Gold; Platinum
Signed: One with French control marks, both unsigned, nos. “20814” and “6047”
Documentation: Together with authenticity report, from Boivin archivist and expert, Françoise Cailles, confirming and dating the brooches as the work of the firm René Boivin

The gems in these brooches are mounted “serti-couteau”—or “knife-cut setting”—a daunting technical innovation of 1930s Parisian jewelers that allowed stones of contrasting cuts and sizes to be harmoniously combined, while creating a visually intriguing surface.